By Patricia Buschette
On a high hill near Nerstrand, Minn., in northeast Rice County, two historic churches face each other, merely 70 feet apart. Their presence is startling, and their story a curiosity.
Not many have greater knowledge of the history of this site than Dr. Gary Wagenbach of Nerstrand, Professor of Biology Emeritus at Carlton College in Northfield, and Margit Carson Johnson of Northfield, community activist and grant writer, both members of the Valley Grove Preservation Society.
“I lived in the Twin Cities and attended Carlton. I didn’t know about what has come to be known as Valley Grove until I moved back in the 1970s,” Margit said. “Like many, I found this beautiful place magnetic. The buildings are iconic and the cemetery is interesting.”
The early days of Valley Grove church began with services in log homes. On June 8, 1858, visiting pastor Rev. Larsen baptized 33 children under what was known as “Big Oak” or “Baptism Tree,” a 200-year-old Bur Oak that met its fate in a windstorm in 2018.
Construction of a stone church began in 1862, and the Civil War complicating the effort. Stone from a nearby limestone quarry was used in the construction.
The stone church was quite extraordinary, the pulpit raised to an impressive height, with the halo effect of a wooden arch. “The arch disintegrated,” Margit said. “When there was discussion of duplicating it, experts said that with changing temperatures, a replacement arch would also collapse.”
As the membership expanded and the congregation outgrew the stone church, plans were made for a larger church. Half the congregation wanted the church to be located in nearby Nerstrand, while others wanted it on the same site. Two identical churches were built; Grace Lutheran in Nerstrand, and a church on the high hill facing the stone church.
The foundation of the new church was quarried from what is now Big Woods State Park, and the pulpit and bell were moved from the stone church to the new church in May 1895.
The juxtaposition of the limestone church and the wooden frame church facing each other on the high hill create a striking scene. However, as often happens to rural churches, agricultural practices changed and there were fewer large families. The membership diminished in the 1970s and the difficult decision to disband was made on April 17, 1970.
The church fell into disrepair and the congregation considered demolishing the building.
“John Maakestad, Valley Grove neighbor and St. Olaf art professor, spearheaded an effort to save the historic church,” Gary said.
Valley Grove’s challenges continued. A disagreement with an earlier preservation group and the Valley Grove-Grace Cemetery Association had resulted in a debt of nearly $5,000. The debt was settled through fundraisers while the church continued to serve as a venue for weddings, funerals, concerts and services.
“Gov. Albert H. Quie, a former member of the congregation, returned to the church on occasion, regaling attendees with stories,” Gary said. He was the guest speaker at the 150th anniversary of the construction of the stone church. In 2023 a celebration of his life was commemorated at Valley Grove.
One fascinating part of the church’s history includes the involvement of youth. “Young people are incorporated into the effort to tell the history of early members of Valley Grove. They present cemetery tours for the public, relating lives of those who were a part of the early days of the church.” The churches are cared for by the Preservation Society while the cemetery board cares for the cemetery, and continues to sell plots.
Like other volunteers, Margit supports the church in many ways. It was Margit who made the connection with Robbie LaFleur from Minneapolis whose skill in weaving was learned in Norway. Robbie was awarded a Gold Medal in Weaving from Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum in Decorah, Iowa.
“It was through a grant from Partners for Sacred Places’ Nordic Church project that we were able to bring her to Valley Grove,” Margit said. As a result, four tapestries called billedvev, translated as “picture weaving,” were created, she explained.
These tapestries are displayed in the stone church during the summer months and removed in winter when they go on exhibit. “I identify and make contact with venues that will display them over the winter months,” she said.
Another restoration effort was the recreation of wall sconces that replaced original wall sconces. A chandelier was fabricated that recreates the original chandelier.
For Gary, restoration of the prairie is a personal triumph that brought many people into the fold of preservation of the churches.
“The trigger for the development of what is the beginning of an oak savanna came in 2000 when a ‘Land for Sale – 113 acres’ sign went up on the road,” Gary said.
“There was much anxiety, and a meeting was called. Before the evening was over a cap was passed around and there were large checks totaling nearly $5,000. When the door opened for business the next day, a purchase agreement for $414,000 was signed on behalf of the society, half a day before the next interested buyer arrived.”
“That is the legendary story,” Gary added.
While the purchase was a triumph, an overwhelming reality remained. “We had six months to raise the balance due on the contract,” he said.
Key players including neighbors Ken Sahlin and Peter McKinnon who believed in the effort’s success. Some members of the community were unimpressed and believed there was no way planners would accomplish their goal.
Margit recounted the effort of Karin Winegar, a Carlton graduate, and board member who was married in the Valley Grove Church. “She prepared a full page newspaper story about the project that appeared in the Minneapolis Star Tribune,” Gary added.
“In the end more than 475 people throughout the country donated to the cause,” said Gary. “We were excited when Garrison Keillor made a donation.”
Members of the Society, neighbors and those throughout the United States made donations through direct mailings and phone calls. The fulfillment of the contract meant generous donations of time, cash and loans. Funds were still short when the board learned of the Federal Forest Legacy Program.
“Dirk Peterson of the Department of Natural Resources completed the application that was accepted. The land was placed in a permanent conservation contract, protecting it in perpetuity, and awarding $128,000,” Gary said.
“This land,” he said, pointing out the window of the stone church, “was the first easement of that type in the State of Minnesota. The land was restored and no longer vulnerable to development. It was agreed that a lightly forested grassland known as an oak savanna would be established with fire resistant trees.”
“The oak savanna is one of the rarest habitats in the State of Minnesota,” Gary said.
Still short of the purchase price, neighbors provided low or no interest loans to pay the contract. Peter McKinnon, friend of the organization, purchased a portion of the acreage, managing it consistent with the 50-acre Valley Grove portion, and small state-owned tracts.
Management is done by volunteer labor, including young people, Gary said. “The challenge for the volunteer board is to nurture the savanna and prairie.” The board has spent thousands of dollars on pollinator wildflower seed. They will plant as funds are available. The goal is to recreate a landscape that is consistent with the scene when Norwegian settlers arrived.
The 1894 church remains a venue for weddings. The September social features traditional Norwegian music, informal concerts and wagon rides. Christmas Eve services were initiated in the 1990s. The 1862 stone building is used for meetings, gatherings and teaching purposes.
There is financial value in the preservation of churches. Partners for Sacred Places that assisted in funding for restoration efforts has examined the economic value of historic congregations to their communities. That contribution is measured in thousands of dollars.
While celebrating the legacy of their houses of worship, the Preservation Society of Valley Grove moves into the future, honoring the call to preserve the earth for generations to come.